Are any of your switches compatible with low voltage bathroom ‘fans’? I’m building a house now and all of the bathroom fans just turn on the HRV, but the wiring there is 24V AC. I’m not an electrician, so maybe I’m not understanding this properly. The good thing about a system like this is only one switch on the whole circuit would need to be smart to control the whole thing.
No, but thanks for the reminder – we do need to create a low voltage option 
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I think I’m going to start a separate thread to better understand low-voltage switches. I did some quick research on them (admittedly, I know nothing about them!) and there seems to be 0-10V and then 12/24V, but I’m not sure if we could just make one that covers everything under 120V or not. I’m assuming there’s a reason why most are 0-10V.
Any chance a fan/light combo switch (project hurricane) remote is in the works? I have a three-way setup with a fan/light combo bring controlled by a dimmer with no neutral. If we could have either two hurricane switches control one canopy module, or a remote send commands to the single hurricane switch, it would be so much better than my setup. I could have a neutral if I didn’t have to have such a weird setup.
0-10v is pretty common in industrial/commercial lighting for dimming purposes (and some aquarium lighting).
Not as familiar with 12 and 24 purposes although 12v is pretty common for RVs and camper electronics.
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Its also very common in Landscape lighting
Great line up. The problem now is to deal with the anxiety while we wait 
If I can suggest something: double your focus on firmware. You guys are awesome, your product looks fantastic and quality is unquestionable. A lot of the little things we deal with are firmware related so… maybe take the opportunity to keep a closer eye on that.
As you reach for a broader audience, the majority of your buyers may become non technical people. They won’t consider the online comunity or a firmware upgrade. For them the first impression is what counts.
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Agree. Maybe even a public-facing github for tracking feature requests. I would participate heavily, even if the code isn’t shared.
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If you really want to do more in lamps (a.k.a. “bulbs”), focus on CRI. I use PAR 38s from Ketra in my recessed cans because there is just nothing out there that produces light as beautiful as theirs. They also give controls for adjusting the ratio of RGB to W, which is one of their best features. Pumping the RGB wavelengths up a little makes primary colors virtually glow. Unfortunately, they are $150 a lamp- even their A bulbs. If you could produce that quality of light for a lot less, that would be a HUGE win for consumer lighting, even if it’s only for relatively high end consumers.
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THIS!
Me too 
and even better IF some of the code could be shared or open-source. I’d be happy to freely contribute to open-source code. 
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Fireplace switches would be another low voltage use case.
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I know I am probably in the minority, but I have virtually no interest in bulbs. I have exactly two fixtures in the house that take a standard Edison bulb and those already have LED lamps in them (Inovelli Z-Wave, of course! 
). Everything else in the house either has a tiny bulb with a candelabra base (ceiling fans), some sort of par-20 lamp, or in the newer fixtures hard-wired LED units and no lamp at all.
Of course, the other problem I have with most “smart” bulbs is that they act independently of the switch. Someone turns off the switch that powers them, and now you can’t turn them on from an app. Or in the case of the ZigBee bulbs I’m testing with some of my ceiling fans, if the zigbee hub (HA in this case) is out to lunch, you can’t turn the lamps on or off from the switch or the app (Insteon in most cases for me). This leads to a household that uses phrases like “get theses ##%*@!% bulbs out of here”.
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What you are describing can be remedied with Inovelli Dimmers (eg red/blue series) as they can control smart bulbs (via hub or direct association). This combination smart switch+smart bulb is the best of both worlds.
Understanding that if the hub goes down you don’t have control, but reliability for my hubs is quite high (HA and HE).
Sure - but that doesn’t work all that well when you have Zigbee bulbs and Z-Wave or Insteon switches. At that point there is still a middle-man. And I have yet to find Z-Wave bulbs that will fit my fans (candelabra bulbs).
Plus by the time you buy a smart switch and bulb(s), you’re looking at a very expensive solution for a ceiling fixture. With very few exceptions, I don’t see the appeal. I really don’t need to change the color of the bulbs most of the time when I can just dim them.
And don’t even get me started on what I think of wifi bulbs…
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Works flawlessly on my hubitat with zigbee bulbs and Inovelli Red (Z-Wave) Dimmer. Turns on/off/dims with no appreciable delay. Can command with multi-tap scenes from Inovelli or through alexa, etc to change colors. I got my zigbee bulbs on clearance, sure it was more than standard bulbs, but for my outdoor deck having the color changing lights adds a definite cool factor.
The majority of my house is still as you describe, non-smart LEDs with smart dimmers (but if I keep the red-series in the key places, I have the option to add smart bulbs in the future).
I’m in 100% agreement on wifi bulbs… though maybe a locally controllable one wouldn’t be out of the question in certain areas.
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Come play at my house and I’ll show you how wrong you are. I have on/off/dim functionality fully talking from Inovelli red dimmer to 6 x zigbee cans.
PLUS scene control still!
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So you have that working w/o a hub?
My big problem with that setup is that you now have three points of failure just to turn on a light. Or in your case 7 – six separate bulbs, a hub, and the switch. The fact that you can control bulbs on different circuits from a single switch is likely a good use-case for this smart bulbs though. Assuming that you can’t also do the same thing by just grouping the switches controlling them into a scene (I have done a lot more Insteon work than I have Z-Wave, so scenes are a natural solution to a lot of problems for me).
No, but my HA instance on Unraid server with UPS backup is 100% local and so far has 100% uptime, literally. It’s all local so points of failure is relative, but all of the zigbee components are grouped, so one switch to zwave stick to hub to zigbee stick (same stick) to zigbee group via multicast. If you didn’t know what it was you wouldn’t know the difference.
Great to hear about your road map. I’m a 2+ year user and fan. My feedback…
- Your design (look) is great - Please keep great product design
- Functionality is great (e.g. replace 4-way switch with one switch, lots of configuration)
- Please improve:
** Simplicity
*** I’m a BSEE and MS CSE and I don’t have the time or inclination to upgrade firmware - can you automate/simplify this;
*** simplify configuration with software, automated located and configure?
*** make sure Hubitat and HomeAutomation and (google/apple) controls are super easy (fully automated) to connect to Inovelli devices.
** Make the Killer Switch - Single Super Switch (IR, On/Off/ 4-way, dimmer) all in one switch (I see IR in your Q3 2022 - nice! - I’m using Ugly GE IR switches with dimmer and on/off - a great way to add IR to a room without batteries and yet another device)
Thanks for your great work. Keep it up.