It’s the aux switch, so that might be where I have things wrong. Can I change that in hubitat, or do I HAVE to go through the button combo/reading the LED to do that?
You don’t have an Aux switch, it’s a dumb switch. You are talking about the blinking on the switches we did last night, right?
It would surprise me if it’s an issue with the LED bulbs. You could try wiring in a bypass on one. Also, setting your max and min dim may help. @harjms can give you those values
Thanks, I am talking about the switches we did. I have an inovelli set to another of these pot lights, though its an individual one, and it works fine.
Ok, well then you definitely don’t have an Aux. If a dimmer in a 2-way is working ok with the same light, then either a bypass or using an Aux instead of a dumb switch may help. It’s going to be trial and error, unfortunately.
And I know James @harjms told you to set the parameters in Hubitat, but indulge me and set them at the switch. Your settings are not the default and there have been cases which the hubs think they have set the parameters correctly but the haven’t.
Your lights may be incompatible. According to spec sheet it’s compatible with ELV and TRIAC. I believe Inovelli is MOSFET.
…well then, that sucks. Thanks again for all the help, it seems like that’s the brakes on this. I’ll find somewhere else to put them I guess.
Isn’t always the case, but may explain some of the issues you’re seeing.
@Nelo Agree with @Bry. Set minimum dim to 30% and maximum dim to 80%. Save preferences. A bypass may help in your situation. I don’t know if anyone else has same cans as you to see if they had any success.
I tried all sorts of min/max combinations. I would’ve checked the pot lights sooner, but I didn’t know how to pull them out till I did for those pics. The specs say that I should not be able to use this dimmer with this type of lighting system, so I’m throwing in the towel on this one.
It does bother me a lil that I was able to get them working for a brief moment, but I have doubts that I just wasn’t waiting long enough for them to begin flickering and fail.
You both are some solid people to help me out so much, and I don’t feel that this is a failure of the Inovelli dimmer.
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Hey folks,
I’m having a similar issue except my set up is a 3-way, with the 110V mains in one box, and the light output in the other with a 4 wire (red/traveller, neutral, black and earth) running between:
If the dumb switch is off (located in the box with the 110V source) - it doesn’t matter what the other switch does.
I switched the dumb and LZW30 around, and now the LZW30-SN is powered all the time, but it seems its not triggering the traveler properly.
If the dumb switch is on, the inovelli works as expected
If the dumb switch is off, the inovelli relay only seems to trigger in one switch direction. meaning - I hit off (relay clicks), I then hit on (no relay click), I hit off again (relay clicks). I have to switch the inovelli on (despite no relay response) in order to be able to switch the inovelli off (and hear a click).
Truly baffled. (note 3-way dumb switch was illuminated, but is not now based on the diagram above)
if i switch the dumb switch off, it doesnt affect the inovelli - and the inovelli is also not changing the binary switch state in the zwave info (home assistant).
Seems like the traveler isnt sending a signal properly - hope there isnt a damaged wire somewhere
You need to use a regular dumb switch. Inovelli switches are not compatible with illuminated dumb switches.
yeah by that i meant, it WAS and no longer is an illuminated switch. So the problem still exists sadly
Got it. If I understand correctly, with the dumb switch fixed in one position, the Inovelli works as expected. But when you flip the dumb switch to the other position (there is no on/off on a 3 way switch), you only hear the relay function with a down press but not an up press? That seems weird, as you’d think the Inovelli wouldn’t function in either direction.
What firmware?
I’d consider doing a factory reset or swapping in another switch if you have one to see if that resolves it.
Try swapping load and traveler at the switch.
ok, will try this first - and then @Bry will swap the switch (firmware was 1.21 but updated to 1.22 yesterday)
i’ll report back (and thank you both for your replies!)
What James means is that in the load box, you should have a 2-wire and a 3-wire. The 2-wire is going to the load, the three-wire is coming from the other switch. In the load box, the black conductor of the 2-wire should be connected to the BLACK (common) screw on the dumb switch.
If that is what you have, it’s correct and should be left alone. James is thinking you don’t have that wired correctly.
I thought it was a 3-way separate box and thus should have a 14/2 or 14/3 going from Box A to Box B. Swap RED and BLK (load and traveler).