I had several switches that would cycle 3 colors and click (not sure if it was the same set of three colors?) and found that swapping the line/load wires fixed it.
This is the switch resetting itself, no question.
It’s more than likely due to
- Not enough load, non-neutral. Add bypass (or two).
- Wiring issue
- Switch detecting non-neutral when it is in neutral service.
Not enough load, non-neutral. Add bypass (or two).
In my case, there is a neutral line. Don’t know how much load is enough, but there 20.5W when the lights are on.
Wiring issue
Being a single pole installation, I’m not sure what the wiring issue could be even. There’s really not much in there at all, just a line, load, and a neutral. I will triple check it.
Switch detecting non-neutral when it is in neutral service.
If that’s true, why does it work in dimming mode, or when relay clicks are disabled?
Edit: I triple checked the wiring, and based on the response by @azreal, I checked the Line vs Load. Both were red in my box, and I didn’t bother checking which was which before since the switch is supposed to auto-sense. After confirming which was which and swapping them out, on/off mode works.
@kreene1987, it appears #2 WAS causing my issue, though I was either mislead by the Hardware Features and Capabilities post, or this is an auto-sense bug/limitation. I normally would verify these kinds of things. Thanks for challenging me, and Thanks @Azrael for posting your solution.
Edit: the switch does NOT autosense. This was an initial project goal that didn’t make it into production.
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I’m pretty sure that while that was in the initial goals for the project it didn’t make the final product. Your switch should be labeled for line/load separately I believe?
It is labeled quite clearly, and I should have known better. I just had it in my head for months that it didn’t matter, and that was my mistake (RTFM!). If this were a GFCI or something else, I would have made 100% sure.
I understand that the wish list was changed before production, and that is 100% understandable. I won’t ever make that mistake again! Hopefully others in a similar situation will find this thread.
Thanks everyone!
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Good to have confirmation re the labeling (mine have a shipping label but not here yet 
), I also messaged Eric to see if we could get that page updated to help for clarity in the future too btw.
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I don’t think your circumstance matches mine. I can swap the line and load line but, I clearly remember the load coming from the top of the box on its own wiring set. The lines are all pigtailed inside the gang box together. I’ll have to double check when I get home. It won’t damage it if the line and load are reversed? It makes sense why it would act that way in off and not on.
I wouldn’t blindly swap line and load, may be good to re-validate that they’re connected correctly though?
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Your right. But from an electrical perspective, you could have the two swapped on a dumb switch and it wouldn’t cause an issue. I don’t know if it’s the same with blue series, but it only having issues in the off mode with the line and load wired incorrectly would make sense why the switch would act weirdly. It would be nice if someone knew why it blinked that specific order because that’s not by magic. Someone programmed it to do that. I’ll be able to test and check it in a few days with my switches.
EDIT: using the air gap, my switch stays on and only has the issue if it’s in the off position. If airgap disconnects the line side and not the load side; if my line and load are reversed, using airgap should completely shut the switch off if wired correctly.
Are you saying if you pull the air gap that the switch (and presumably load) stay powered?
Pulling the air gap, the load disconnects. Is that normal behavior? Saw somewhere that pulling the air gap resets the switch by disconnecting power to it completely. If I had it wired backwards then air gap would act one way or the other. I can’t test any of this and it’s kind of speculative. I can test it this weekend. I have a whole electrical lab I could take a switch to and test it on the bench if needed but I prefer not too since I could smoke a switch or two doing that without knowing how it’s wired internally.
By default it secures power to the whole switch (load, radio, etc…)
For testing line vs load, pull the air gap and whichever TERMINAL remains powered with respect to neutral (~120VAC on multimeter), that is your LINE.
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Lol, happens to us all. Glad you got her fixed. Please mark a solution if you haven’t yet!
I’m having this same issue. In home assistant I turned the relay off as well and the lights cycling with the clicking has all stopped. Why does this seem to fix the problem? Should I swap my load and line wires? I wired it as done originally on the previous switch, does that mean the electrician did it wrong but it didn’t make a difference on a dumb switch?
When an Inovelli is installed, it is crucial to properly identify the conductors. The line should be identified by testing the unconnected connectors using a meter, testing between the hot and neutral or hot and ground, depending if the connection is a neutral or non-neutral.
I can’t say based on changing parameters if the switch was installed improperly. However, if there is any question that it was, I would pull the switch and test the conductors to properly identify which is the Line and which is the Load. Two users in this thread had the Line and Load reversed, so since you are experiencing the same issue, I would pull the switch and test to properly identify the Line.
That being said, you should not arbitrarily swap the Line and Load conductors. Test, and if it’s incorrect, fix it.
To add to Bry, dumb switches can be wired however they want and it isn’t that the electrician did it wrong. Manufacturers will move the common/line around on dumb switches. Black screw on dumb switches is usually your line/common.
It autosenses Neutral/non-Neutral. It does not autosense Line/Load
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