Ha, yeah I get it!
Yeah, we’re definitely talking about this internally – could be that we partner with an existing HUB company or we may build our own. Either way, we definitely have a vision for 2020 being the year that we pull the entire ecosystem together!
@Eric_Inovelli, this is both awesome and frustrating… in that I have to wait to get my hands on it! The marketplace really needs a new fan control. The only common Z-wave FCs I see out there are the GE and Honeywell, and I think they are the same product under the hood (Jasco). Along those lines, do you have any ideas about pricing? Inovelli has been very price competitive in the past. The aforementioned units seem to hover around $45.
Also, where does OpenHAB2 fit into this? The previous line of Inovelli products seemed to play quite well with OH2. Any reason to think this won’t? Having said that, while i have been pretty committed to OH2 on RPi, the Inovelli name could convince me to switch to a new Hub!
-GBS
Another thing that crossed my mind. A lot of houses like mine have separate fan and fan light switches in the wall. Replacing that with this single switch will leave a hole. While that can be blocked off with a filler plate, it would be cool if there were another (paddle switch sized) useful device that could occupy that space on the switch plate. Something like a combo temp/humidity/motion sensor or similar? (Or perhaps just a HAL-9000 style eye? 
)
Y. If you had switches that could pop in, similar to how circuit breakers pop into a panel. So if I wanted an on/off and a dimmer, I would order a module and then order an on/off and a dimmer (or a fan or. sensor.)ala carte… Personally, i would never change my mind, but if one decides to change an on/off for a dimmer, it conceivably would be a piece of cake. If it cost $10 or $15 or $20 more, so be it. Also, barring any problems with code, the switches could protrude out 1/4 or 3/8" if necessary…(or could be made flush with a box trim plate)
Haha, yeah I know – this has been a request that I’ve heard even before I started Inovelli and was just tinkering with home automation. I’m surprised no one came out with it tbh. So we’re pretty excited!
Yeah it should work with OH2 – Eric M. who is a literal wizard when it comes to coding will work with whomever over there to make sure it works as he did with the prior versions. Same goes for Hubitat, SmartThings, and there’s one other one but I can’t think of it off the top of my head (similar to OH2).
Saved the best question for last… so those switches mentioned above by GE/Honeywell/Jasco are Fan only switches. Since this one (Project Hurricane) is a fan + light (which also has to include a module), it will be a little more expensive than this. On top of that, the tariffs have not helped at all and I’m hoping by the time this launches those will be sorted out, but who knows. We’re still working on pricing, but I can assure you we will maintain our promise to keep things affordable.
For a fan only switch, we did start this project which will be released after Project Hurricane, which is located here: Fan Switch | Project Windy City - ON HOLD - Projects & Roadmaps - Inovelli Community
Yeah definitely – my house is a bit weird in that some rooms have separate light/fan switches whereas others only have one. What you could do in this situation is use the standalone fan switch (mentioned above) along with either a dimmer or On/Off switch.
Or we could go the HAL-9000 style and start producing something like the Eye of Sauron Fibaro produces 
(Amazon.com)
Stuff of nightmares right there!
Ah sorry @mgreenb561, I meant to respond to this in another thread (I think it was you). Yeah I personally love this idea. I’m curious on the logistics and certifications (whether UL will allow it) but it seems like Swidget was able to come up with an in-wall outlet that is exactly what you’re talking about (I remember seeing them via a Z-Wave Newsletter or something and thought, “dang, that’s an amazing idea”): https://swidget.com/
Y that was me. the swidget is nice but no switches.
from your comments, i get the impression that there is a z-wave module plus your board for your firmware in each device. If you could share the zwave module in the fixture (kind of the reverse of swidget) with modules for 2 separate paddles (or sensor) w/ a separate board on each (it could probably protrude a centimeter if needed?) or not even have paddle modules…just control whether it is on/off or dimmer (or even dumb) thru firmware.
I was thinking more along the lines of a stab-lok design with a faceplate that would lock it in… I would just guess locking it in would be more amenable to UL than the swidget design, which appears to have been approved anyway. Not an engineer…just a wannabe
I really don’t see why no one builds out (aesthetics??) for space; sensors protrude from the wall, old rockers and dimmer knobs do. They sell faceplates at HD that are about .5 cm the Lutron Picos are out
My house has only one room that has separate switches for the light and the fan, in that one I put a GE fan control and a GE dimmer for the light. As I mentioned before, I used the HB kit in a bedroom fan but can only control the lights through Alexa. I don’t even use the light that often. I have two fans on in a covered patio that are one one switch and I put a GE switch on that as they said it could run both loads. It works ok but the speed control is not great. I divorced the lights from those fans and just put a hanging fixture with a smart bulb between them. I really only have one fan I want to upgrade and that is one in a cathedral ceiling that is operated by one wall switch but has a remote control. It doesn’t have enough room for smart bulbs. It’s not so high that I couldn’t install a module so I’m not adverse to that since my wall boxes aren’t huge.
BTW, thanks for all the back and forth with us out here.
So just wondering here, are you communicating wirelessly to the fan so that the module doesn’t take up space in the switch gang box and also need 4 wire to control the light? If the switch was 4 wire fan speed could be done through one hot and light dimming on the other for a manual override incase zwave went down or wireless interference. I figure the reason here is space in the box and full interopability with existing wiring as most is 3 wire.
This is exactly what I am looking for because noone seems to do light dimming but only light on/off currently which is crazy to me.
Also why RF to the fan module instead of zwave? Wouldn’t zwave be faster? At least when sending commands from say a hub or control system.
Yeah that makes sense – lol, I can’t even pretend to be an engineer. Just the guy who has some cool ideas and then passes it along to the smarter ones!
Yeah, idk – it’s a cool idea and I do like the double-button design over the paddle (decora)
Yeah, my GE’s have been rock solid in terms of working with Wink (originally) and now ST, but you’re right, the speed control is just meh at best. I don’t like the fact that you have to hold down the paddle and wait for the light to flash for a faster speed. It also seems to take forever to manually make the fan go faster. But, it’s definitely super fast response time when I go through an app or Alexa.
Yeah, no problem! It’s actually a lot of fun and is a good break in the day. Sorry I’ve been a little MIA lately, been trying to finish up the Amazon listings for these projects!
Yes, that’s exactly what’s happening and the driver behind the design. Most people that have requested this switch do not have separate lines coming down from the fan (ie: lights and fan) so in only working with one line, we had to find a way to communicate with fan/light. There are similar devices that are not smart that do something similar such as:
Yeah and you’re correct around the space in the box being full. We wanted to add it down there, but they just couldn’t do it at this time 
We did look at this option, as well as PLC (Power Line Communication) and ultimately landed on the RF to keep costs down. The Z-Wave to Z-Wave was the most expensive option and required more time as the firmware engineers would have to develop two separate sets of firmware. The PLC option had some patent risks and posed a very complicated circuit.
While I haven’t tested it yet, I do think the Hub to Z-Wave to RF will be fast enough. As mentioned, I do have one of the dumb versions of the above RF to RF and it’s pretty quick.
However, yes, this is definitely something that we’ll monitor (sending a remote Z-Wave command to the switch and then RF to the canopy). Good call out!
Can that two wire at the fan still control fan light dimming instead of just on off?? If be curious to know how that is accomplished.
Oh yeah totally, great question. I’ll try to draw out a picture if needed, but it will have the ability to dim the fan lights and change the fan speed from the switch itself (if you notice the buttons in the left of the switch next to the big buttons, that’s where dim and speed control takes place).
Essentially what is happening here is the switch is more of a controller than a traditional, hardwired switch.
When you’re physically at the switch, you can press the top button and it will turn the lights on and off. The button to the side of that controls the dim level. When you press either, a signal is sent to the fan module, which is hardwired to the fan itself. The signal tells the fan lights to turn on or dim up and down (as the module is where the physical relays and dim controllers are).
Same principle applies to the fan buttons.
Essentially, there is a line that goes directly to the module from the fan that powers the module (ie: the switch at the wall does not cut power to the module like a traditional switch does).
From there, at the module, there are a few different wires which lead to the fan. The fan has separate wires for the lights and fan motor which the module wires are connected to. Depending on which button is pushed on the fan switch, the module knows to let current through to whichever wire (ie: fan or light).
Hopefully that made sense? I feel like I butchered the explanation!
Totally makes sense, so the fan controller gets line and neutral. The. Outputs controlled hot to fan motor, dim hot to lights and common?. I looked at the picture you attached and saw hot and neutral in and only two wires out so was confused. The way you describe makes by brain hurt less 
Haha, yeah – anything electrical makes my brain hurt a bit too. I’m just a marketing guy who they let color between the lines at work. I know basic electrical only because I’ve installed a bunch of smart switches and my dad is an EE so he bails me out when I need it 
Anyway, maybe these will help a bit:
That is actually very helpful, slightly different than what I thought however actually more simple. The neutral I have typically seen go through the controller but really there is no need to so your design makes sense.
Now in a typical dumb setup the feed from the electrical breaker comes into the switch then the output of the switch goes to the fan. In your design the breaker feed is simply to power the switch then always RF commands to the fan controller? Which also gets an always hot feed?
Yes, correct on both accounts!
Major thumbs up 
. Can your standard dimmer light switch work the same way? I asked that as a new topic in another part of the forum because my Sylvania recessed bulbs only want zigbee commands and want constant power.
Whoops, yeah my bad – I had that answer drafted, but never actually sent it! I just replied here (in case anyone else wants to read it): Dimmer Switch question - #2 by Eric_Inovelli - General Discussion - Inovelli Community
The short answer is that it works a little different, but also similar in that it can turn into a, “button controller”. You essentially can disable the internal relay of the switch (which makes it so that when someone presses the switch nothing happens to the load) and then send Z-Wave Central Scene Commands to the HUB (which then relays the commands to any device controlled by the HUB).
The major difference between the fan/light switch is that the fan light is meant to directly talk to the fan module, whereas in the Dimmer switch scenario, only other Z-Wave devices can be directly controlled by the switch (ie: Hue, Osram, LIFX would not be able to be directly controlled as they are different protocols). However, as noted, Hue/Osram/LIFX could be controlled via a Z-Wave Central Scene Command (you tap the switch > command is sent to the HUB > HUB sends command to bulb).
Hopefully that makes sense?
So, if I’m following the bouncing ball correctly, If I am just Toooo much in love with my Hampton Bay Zigbee controller, I can indirectly control the Light and Fan on that controller? The ONLY reason I might consider this configuration is that the HB unit has 4 speeds and currently the Inovelli only has 3(?). For what it’s worth, I think the HB speeds are like 25, 50, 75 and 100%
Edit: But that would be at the cost of power monitoring as that circuitry is in the fan module. Correct?
Lol, there is a lot going on in this thread, but it’s definitely fun seeing the various questions!
Can you help me understand how the HB unit works? I’m assuming it’s a ZigBee module that is wired into the fan canopy and you have some sort of remote on the wall? If so, what is at the physical switch (or do you just not use that?)
Sure! I’ll do my best 
The HB unit has both a Zigbee and an RF radio in it. This allows you to control the fan (4 speeds, Breeze mode and of course On/Off) and the fanlight (brightness & On/Off) from either the Zigbee (via Hub) or the provided handheld (RF) remote.
Unlike your unit I don’t believe that there are any smarts in the RF connection i.e. the Remote control is only a Transmitter, the Fan Unit RF is only a Receiver.
The only smarts, that I am aware of, are built into the Zigbee controller i.e. On/Off/Speed and brightness control/monitoring. But NO power monitoring.
Currently, I have a single, normal dumb switch in line with the fan controller to control power to the entire fan (again, no fourth wire). I leave this switch on all the time so the Fan module has power (Duh! ). Thus, control fan/light functions with the radios.
Hampton Bay does make a RF Remote control that mounts into a switch box. Even though it “Looks” like a switch, it still uses a battery and requires you to directly power the Fan controller. Which can cause issues if you need to reset the Zigbee radio (I won’t go into that here). Howeverrrrrrr! IMHO, the switch is Ugleeeeee!. It’s really off white and sticks out like a sore thumb and the buttons feel cheap and sloppy. I bought one. But, because of all the drawbacks mentioned above, I have refused to install it.
