Something that might also happen is some LED bulbs require such low power that even the tiny bit trickled through from the switch (most dimmers and such do NOT completely cut power, but it gets reduced to such a level that almost nothing will run) can light them. I had some older LED bulbs in my canopy but I just purchased a different (and much newer/better set). Now it looks like I have this problem because they are on just a bit, whereas the old ones did not. The switch specifically is set for off.
So question for @EricM_Inovelli:
How much power does the canopy module still have on the LED line even when it is in the “Off” state? I imagine it is some extremely low value (probably <1w) but something. It do not mind the “night light” effect it will give the room in question (the LED packaging even indicates this could happen because they use such little power). But I am curious about it.
Just found this thread, I’m seeing the same behavior with feit electric LED bulbs (15w). The dimmer module seems to be letting enough power through at “off” to keep the LED at around 0.5%, it is dimmer than 1% but just barely.
edit: just verified with a meter. Looks like the dimmer module puts out around 46VAC and will provide 2.34 milliamps of current. That is enough to keep one 15W led lit for a while, giving it access to about .1 watts.
I think my bulbs are an even lower 7w model, but that measurement seems like it would be plenty to keep things running like they are in an ultra-low state.
It sort of works as a nightlight feature for the room I placed it in (my office/hobby room) which thankfully does not need to be a bedroom, so the constant light is not that big of a deal.
The bypass gets wired in with the fan module, not the switch. The bypass connects the neutral and hot/load of the light wire together.
Yellow = Neutral
Black from Junction box = Hot/Load
Blue = Light Hot
Red = Fan Hot
The bypass is essentially just a 14KOhm resistor that lets a little bit of current bypass the LED. They are usually used in neutral-less locations but also useful for dimmers when the LEDs don’t present enough of a load for the dimmer to work right. In this case it is acting like a pull-down resistor, dropping that “off” voltage down low enough that the LEDs won’t light. By my measurement with the bypass installed the “off” voltage drops to 10V.
Crap. Misread the switch model . . was thinking a 30 or 31. Comes up a lot for others so was curious about yours. Good writeup. Thx for taking the time!
So the same fix should work for the non-fan dimmer switches. you just wire the bypass between the Light’s hot/load and Neutral. OR if you don’t have a Neutral you wire it in the light fixture to bridge the two wires that go into the light.
I ordered one of the bypasses… then decided against actually installing it so I can continue to have the “low level” lighting. Might as well save that resistor (bypass) for some future need. Not like it is going to go bad.
I just installed one of these a few days ago. I wasn’t happy about needing the part without some sort of pre-sales warning from Inovelli, but for $15 it was cheaper than buying a new fan or switch hardware.
The Amazon link for the bypass works for me. But here is the one from Inovelli. It’s $5 cheaper at Inovelli, so that will make up most of the shipping.
@Maverick0984 - In addition to what @Bry posted, you could try (guinea pig) Jasco’s branded bypass as well. It’s $5 cheaper than Aeotec’s bypass; however, not tested by Inovelli.
For the more adventurous you can also just get a 28K Ohm resistor for about $.60. I’d get one with at least a 3W rating though worst case (full on light) it probably only dissipates a bit over a watt. I actually found some 5W rated ones on Amazon for $7 for 10. Works like a charm for my one led fixture that used to glow in an inconvenient location and stays cooler than the dimmer.
I ended up getting the Jasco one just because I could get it on Amazon and I was lazy. Other than the instructions calling to install it at the switch (won’t work for us), it seems fine. My glow is very faint so I actually have to wait until nightfall to fully confirm but it’s working well so far.
