I have an LZW30-SN on/off that doesn’t report power consumption (watts reading is always 0). Would this be expected to work for the on/off switch too (firmware v1.22), or only the dimmer?
(Using Home Assistant with zwavejs2mqtt.)
Just a note, you should be sending the calibrating command modified to the value of a known load. The above example I think was 200W, which is what the factory tests to. You need to send it the calibration value you want (for example, 28W @ 121V or something).
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I actually measured the connected load at 16.8w which is very close to the rated 16.5w. When I enter these numbers in it shows 19w connected.
I imagine this has something to do with how small the load is.
I actually have not heard of this problem being on the LZW30-SN. You can test out the HA fix, but I am not sure it will work.
Did you confirm voltage? My house was at 126V when I performed this, which of course will offset the wattage.
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Voltage was confirmed to 125.9VAC. current was measured to 0.14A. When I calibrate the switch using these numbers, it reports 20w. It should be closer to 17w. It was definitely closer before the calibration went out.
What I’ve done is set the wattage lower on calibration to get the reported full load watts in the expected range. Not sure how that effects the wattage or reported KWH at different dim levels.
One question, does this fix fake the power reporting? Like does it basically just take the load at 100% and scale it based on level, or does it actually use a C.T to measure actual load still? I may try swapping in higher wattage bulbs and see how it reacts. As this would answer my own question.
I was actually going to suggest this. Use a 100W bulb from HD and re-calibrate. Or a heat bulb, I think some of those get pretty high in wattage.
Just a follow-up. I found a 60w incandescent bulb and stuck that in there. It calibrated much closer to expected. (72w vs 71w calculated) However, once I swapped the old bulb back in, the switch is now measuring lower then expected.
Also, to respond to my previous posts question, the switch IS actually actively monitoring the power consumed as it does vary if bulbs are removed or higher wattage bulbs are added.
I imagine if I went to the factory calibration wattage, I would be able to get the switch as accurate as it was before. I’ll have to get creative to add that kind of wattage though, as I don’t have any other high wattage bulbs to stick in.