deselect that. otherwise the switch/dimmer will do that with the relay too.
just enable the notifications down below and set your preferences. please note that I only enabled notification-related settings. no power settings for the switch. just tap on it to deselect it.
At least on the Iphone it is one or the other there is no deslection. It is only a check mark selection that allows either “On” or “Off”. Again this is on the Red Dimmer Edge Driver.
Just wanted to throw in a few comments on things I’ve seen. I’ve now converted 2 switches (red on/off and fan+light combo). Sorry if some of this is rehashed.
On the fan+light combo I am having a few issues. I’ve also made it more complicated by adding hue lights to the fan so I want to disable local control on the light. First problem is that since it’s only one switch it gets pulled into Google home as one switch and as a light. Can’t do voice of home app control as it kills power to the hue lights and operates the fan. Obviously speed control and dimming are combined too. It also shows as a color light so accidental voice controls will change the LEDs. This seems to be a known issue that was mentioned prior. I had actually been wondering why my LEDs kept changing so I guess now I know.
I also went to use scene control and the buttons aren’t labeled so I have 2 that say button 1, button 2 and button 3. Not sure what any of them apply to. Maybe I am doing something wrong. Makes it hard to use my hue lights.
Yeah, Google Home (and probably Alexa) are being problematic. Voice integrations in ST used to allow you to choose which devices to allow them to see / control. I think they removed that in an “upgraded” integration. Did they ever add that ability back or are there any plans to?
As far as selecting devices, ST said back when they first redid the voice assistant integrations that they were working on it, but I think it’s been close to a year without an official comment, longer since it first happened, so I wouldn’t hold my breath.
The ST implementation of multi-endpoint devices under Edge is also a problem, in that only the main device shows up for voice assistants. The workaround for now is to create a virtual device corresponding to each component and use a routine to sync it - very cluttered and pushes everyone closer to the limits on each of those, but for now that’s the only option we have.
You can just disable it on the Alexa side, not sure about GH.
Although the fan/light does come through as a single device and I’m pretty sure (but not 100%) that when both the fan and the light are separately turned off the main stays on. Unless the main off was called, it stays on regardless.
Yeah the current work around for hiding it is to just add the device to another home which is fine. I have a bunch of devices that are connected directly to Google and to smart things so the get duplicated in GH. Just add them to another home called hidden and they are gone. Not ideal but it works.
I also found an edge driver that was developed to make local virtual devices, so I made a virtual fan and made routines to turn it on and off, but no fine percentage adjustments. Not the end of the world for now. Maybe there is a way to do it cleaner, but i am far from a smart things expert.
Eric I just wanted to thank you for these drivers. They are working great in my home which I converted back to ST and it’s become shockingly faster since I left. I know there are tweaks and improvements but NICE WORK getting this across the line on a first pass. Job well done for sure and I’d be stuck in the mud if it weren’t for your efforts!
I’ve been working on edge drivers quite a bit the last few days. Just want to give an update that I have found a solution to the LED bar in Alexa issue. I’m using it on the blue series driver right now. It is basically a custom capability that allows you to change the color / level of the LED bar.
Also, I have made a lot of progress on having the ability to “bind” / “associate” devices so they can communicate directly. Again, this is being implemented on the blue series and then will be brought to the other devices.
In the old scheme, we could create multiple child notification devices and turn them on or off independently, and if multiple notifications were active the LED bar would (in theory) cycle between them; I can’t remember whether I ever actually saw that happen but I only had a couple of notifications that were in active use.
Now that the LED bar is a single custom capability, it appears that any automation that activates one notification style will overwrite a previous one, and if that automation turns off the LED bar when it’s finished, any previously active notifications would not be re-implemented. Is that correct? I’ve been waiting for automatic migration to avoid rebuilding routines, so I haven’t had an opportunity to test any of this out yet.
Notifications don’t stack and run one at a time. If you start one it overrides the previous one. It works that way with the child devices as well. As far as I can tell the edge drivers don’t really change the functionality that much other than you don’t have to create a child switch to activate a notification like you did with groovy (which was limited to 5 on SmartThings I think). You can run any number of notifications under edge.
@MarkTr322@jjbrock7 Do you guys have any additional info on how to setup the virtual devices for the fan + light endpoint on the LZW36? Looking for a workaround until we get the changes in the driver implemented.
I have installed a Red Series Dimmer in my office closet. It keeps going offline in SmartThings. Everything works just fine when I use the switch to turn it on and off, but when I look at the device in SmartThings, it shows offline. And when I turn it on with the swtich, it comes back online, but it takes over 5 seconds to respond to any actions, if it ever even does anything. There are times that it actually works better via Google Home app and still nothing in SmartThings. And Google Home is getting the device from SmartThings. What can I do about this? It is on the same floor as the hub, maybe 40 feet away. Close to the switch is a zooz remote switch and it seems to be working fine. So, I doubt it’s out of range, but maybe it’s out of range?