“pull the air gap” ?
I did a hard reset (held config 30 seconds til led turned red) at some point the other day and then haven’t configured anything since then.
Okay, so → I used an incandescent and pulled the air gap and I want to say it’s working a lot better. I can’t say for certain till I live with it of course.
i’d still prefer to have LEDs, so I went back to the original LED I had and after switching the bulb I popped the air gap again. Immediately fell back into its old bad behavior.
I happen to have the exact same light fixture on another circuit, so I grabbed the bulbs out of that. Those are LED, but different wattage and brand (see below)… popped the air gap again and it seems to work as expected.
I then put the “bad” LED bulb in said other fixture and… immediately that light had weird behavior.
So, OK, I guess it’s the bulb? (And the old fluorescent fixture too?)
Here’s Bulb #1 - the bad one:
Ecosmart 14W non-dimmable - bought recently from Home Depot (think it’s this)
Here’s Bulb#2 - apparently works (? - maybe. jury is still out)
Phillips 9.5Watt Dimmable: (came with the house, no idea how old it is)
Yes
I’m not following. Is a fluorescent fixture on the same leg as the LED bulbs? Those fixtures need a special load type so you can’t mix them. You can’t screw bulbs into a fluorescent fixture so I’m thinking it’s separate?
This problem all started when there was a fluorescent fixture on the circuit. It is gone now, but it exhibited the same problems.
My point is… LED bulbs and a fluorescent fixture made this switch behave strangely.
Since my last post, I’ve picked up yet another LED bulb. It also doesn’t work well. So, every LED I’ve tried as well as the old Flourecent light didn’t work. Isn’t that odd?
Did you try the bulbs reported by others as compatible?
Did you try the special load setting for T-8 loads? If you didn’t, that may have been the issue. Also, mixing the T-8 and non-T-8 on the same leg may have also caused it.
The fluorescent light is long gone and there was no mixing of loads. It was removed and replaced with a different fixture.
Your schematic is hopeless.
I fault the kindergarten schematics on the Inovelli documentation. Almost as useless as yours.
I can’t tell from your crayon drawing if you are trying to gang Inovelli switches or not. But, you can only have one Inovelli switch on a circuit.
In principle, the remote switches simply connect the traveler wire to the neutral:
I had no problem seeing that he documented two switches in a dual-gang box controlling two separate lighting circuits. He also documented that one works fine and the other doesn’t
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You’ll make a lot of friends here being so condescending . . .
Speaking of kindergarten drawings, you can’t use dumb switches with an Inovelli in a non-neutral configuration.
And I’m sure we’d all love to hear why the Inovelli drawings are “kindergarten” . . .
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Let’s be real clear: I used colored pencils, not crayons!
(I eventually found different LED bulbs and the circuit works A-OK now. Been solid for many months.)
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