No Matter how you Thread it….
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Curious, would you prefer chording to multitap? Like instead of pressing button 1 twice, you press button 1 and button 2 at the same time? I wonder which is easier to remember / train.
I use multi tap A LOT.
Chording on paddle switches isn’t going to work well, I don’t believe.
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That is true, but the five button does not have a paddle.
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True enough.
But, I think being “too different” makes it more difficult.
It’s helpful to be able to disable the taps… But, generally, I like them.
In all the Inovelli Red Dimmer and Switches, there is an option to set the “wait” time. If you set it to zero, the multi tap is disabled. I would assume/hope this will be the same for the 5-Button switch…
I agree about most people not remembering, there are a few places we use them: disabling the pool door alarm (4 taps on the mud room switch) and I use them for some of my secret sauce or in my rooms.
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Hi,
Any update on this project?
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Thanks, I didn’t see the PS at the end 
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This sounds like a great product. Separate buttons for scenes are much better that the multi tap approach of, for example, the Homeseer zwave dimmer. However, I have one suggestion. It needs to handle at least 600 watts of incandescent lights. My ceiling has 8 cans each with a 100 watt flood and they are divided into a group of 6 and a group of 2. Therefore I need at least 600 watts for one group of lights.
Warming your house with those things?
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Nobody will believe this but they are about 20 years old. I don’t think we have changed one since we built the house. I think it is because the dimmers fade them on gently and we rarely have them very bright. They are hardly ever on during the day because we have 2 story windows that give a lot of natural light.
If you replaced them with LED lights, would they be within the LED watt limit of the switch?
Probably. The specs for the device say 300W led or CFL and I doubt that an equivalent LED would be 50 W each. But even the best LEDs I have found (Philips Warm Glow, which we have in the kitchen) are not as smooth as the incandescent. Of course some day I will have to replace them because eventually they will burn out.
In my experience, the fade-in of LEDs is rough, but the fade-out usually looks pretty good.
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I’ve got 1,120 watts of bath vanity lights as originally built (house is new to us). 28 x 40W G16.5 globes across the top and down both sides of the mirror. Haven’t replaced them with LED because that’s all gonna get ripped out eventually.
Bonus: there are 2 vanity setups like that. Both of them on at the same time is 2240 watts. For sinks.
No, none of that. No chording, no taps. I’d rather cut a hole in my wall and install boxes to have more single function buttons. And I have, plus in places where the wall was already open for other work extra boxes were added for scene controllers.
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That’s almost 10 amps of vanity lights. I think you’re safe to call it a space heater.
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Now that September is almost over, any update on this?
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I too am interested to find out what’s going on with this…
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