The most immediate (but not available yet) LZW36 replacement would be a fan Switch (Zephyr/Blue Series) for the fan, and a 2-1 switch for the lights. The dual switch project is likely the one you’re looking for though, that’ll be the 2 loads in a 1-gang space along with a potential for a separate canopy module being sold as well that could be set up similarly to the LZW36.
The dual switch sounds like it would be the best fit, although the fan/light is all one load
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I’m guessing they get separated out at the canopy? If they are both 100% tied in I think you’d be stuck with the Fan switch at best, but not sure how that would work with the integrated lights.
At the switch, the wiring is the same as a regular light. At the fan, there’s a canopy module that goes between the wiring (hot, neutral, and ground) and the fan. That module communicates with a remote to control the fan and light. The LZW36 came with a module that took the place of the stock fan module and allowed the switch to act as the remote. I don’t want the fan switch because I don’t want to change the power level to the fan at the switch, the canopy module does that. I want constant power to the fan (i.e. smart bulb mode) and then to be able to control the fan speed without having to use the stock remote.
No update on the canopy switch yet. I’m hoping to start that one in the summer, but right now we don’t have the funding for it. Things may change shortly, however.
It’s one that is on our list because it was such a great seller for us and I believe we were one of the only ones with a switch like that (I think Insteon had an equivalent) so it was a great solve for the predicament a lot of people are in (only one load line coming down).
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I think you’d want to go with the fan switch if you were doing a single switch with the stock canopy module in the near term just for clarity. Even with the smart bulb mode, the 2-1 switch isn’t rated for ceiling fans.
The Fan Switch (Zephyr/Blue Series) has Smart Fan Mode which provides constant power to the fan load.
I wonder how this might work with a bathroom fan/heater setup. I have a couple controlled from a switch like this and haven’t found a way to automate them.
One of the reasons I went with Inovelli is that they were they only smart switch I could find in 02/2021 that combined the fan speed and controlled the fan light in 1 gang. While I had a bit of difficulty setting them up at first, the community/Inovelli helped me get through it. Every now and then (like it seems virtually of their switches, in my experience (YMMV)) I need to not just air gap them, but shut off the power at the main when they stop working every so often. (But that is many, many months apart for any one of them). Also, despite being 700 series and me having the Hubitat 700 series hub, virtually none of them have connected directly to the hub and take a tortuous route (even for the one in the same room as the hub). It may be that they are all in 2 gang metal boxes and the other gang is an Inovelli Red dimmer. I don’t know what causes it. But even with that, and most being at 9.6 KBS, they still work fine and I’d get them again. I would hope the 800 series might actually be able to directly connect.
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Thanks for the update. Unfortunately I’m in that single load predicament category. I’ll keep waiting and checking on any LZW36s that come up for trade or resale
Yeah the current one won’t because the switch is essentially just a remote that speaks to the canopy where it then controls the various speeds/lights, etc at the fan. In other words, the switch doesn’t have a way to control any loads itself.
This is why we’re designing something that will kill two birds with one stone and why it’s taking a bit longer because we want to do it right and need the proper funding to do so.
The new switch will be a dual switch (ie: will control two loads – just like what you’re referencing) and also will have the ability to Z-Wave Associate (or Zigbee Bind) directly to a canopy module that we’ll design separately.
So, this new switch will not only serve as a dual switch, but it can also work as a fan/light switch if you only have one load coming down from your fan and need a canopy module to get control of both the ceiling fan and light.
Hopefully that makes sense?
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Not many options like this. I can think of one off the top of my head from a competitor but it’s a dimmer + switch; for your setup you need switch + switch, and you need the heater component to be rated for a heavy load. It might be easier to use a dual relay hidden in the box, then you can use a single switch with multitap, or 5-button scene controller, or two switches to trigger it.
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Do you know if something similar will be possible for the Fan switch?
There really should be no difference between the two. Air Gapping cuts power to the switch, same as flipping the breaker.
You would think so, and I can’t see any reason why it wouldn’t be so, but this has happened to me several times. I first did that after seeing a suggestion in the forums to flip the breaker and not just pull the air-gap. And, BTW, I do make sure the air-gap is all the way out and I see the power has gone off from the switch (as the LED light goes off). So, just chalk it up to the great tech. gods in the sky. But, just from my experience, if air-gapping doesn’t revive an otherwise unresponsive switch, try throwing the breaker. And, on last, BTW, I do wait a good minute or more trying it each way before I either push the air-gap back in or turn the breaker back on.
Like a dual fan switch? If so, I’m not sure – my gut tells me it seems too niche to be profitable, but if the demand is there, I’m happy to work something up!
One light and one bathroom exhaust
Sorry, I meant if the Fan switch would support the full sine-wave option being worked on in the Blue 2-1.
Do you know if the LED Bar in smart fan mode will simulate fan speed as well? I’ve got several six speed DC fans that I control via a Bond hub. I would love to replace the fan remotes with a smart switch, but would love to show the fan speed via LED Bar.
yes
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