This is THE time to pre-order if you don’t want to pre-order without knowing when you’ll actually get them. You’ll have them in June.
I’d highly recommend you go through the process of bypassing the ballasts of any fluorescent lights when you convert them to LED. The ballasts just waste energy if they’re left connected. It’s pretty simple to do. You access the ballast, disconnect the power wires from the wires feeding the ballast and the cut the output wires from the ballast and connect the power wires to them instead.
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i’ve considered it, i watched the youtube videos and it doesn’t look too complicated…but i just don’t have the time to do 30+ lights in the house. plus, i’ve already bought 12 or so of the philips plug and play LEDs that work really well so far.
Do you know what the price will go up to? Knowing the difference may sway my wife to agree to me preordering rather than waiting. 
Edit: Nevermind. Order placed regardless. I’m excited!
I have a few z-wave switches purchased over the last year or so, and I just pre-ordered 20 of these to replace my 16-year-old fleet of UPB switches. I’ve never used z-wave associations though, and I’m doing some reading here on the forum about how that all works.
One of the posts I found makes it sound like even if you have associations set up, the LED bar won’t sync in a multi-switch (3-way+) configuration. Is that true?
You should have no problems getting the new red series LEDs to sync in a 3+ way. Perhaps we can get a video @Spes_AK.
Should work if you set up associations for groups 2, 3, and 4 in both directions if doing a 3-way setup. You can do it with more than 2 switches as well but it gets a bit more convoluted. There are a couple posts on the forum about it. I’ll see if I can find a link.
EDIT: Here is one discussion: Two LZW31-SN in three-way using associations - LED sync - #11 by kelchm - Wiring Discussion - Inovelli Community
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Great question – they will go up $5 to $60.
Thanks for the support, I can’t wait to hear how you like them!
Just want to confirm here that this will work. I can try to grab a video for you once the switches get here as I only have one setup at my house.
@Dave_Morgan - what hub/gateway are you using? I can try to write up something to help.
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I’m using HomeSeer. That’s great news, and I’m really looking forward to getting these switches. I have three of the old Red switches (and two HomeSeer switches which I’m not crazy about). UPB served me well, but it’s time to update to a better technology, and these should do a fantastic job at that.
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Thanks for the link!
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One of the big things I’m excited about is the “long range”/direct connect ability of the Z-Wave 800 series spec. Hubitat’s new C-8 hub has an 800 series chip but long range isn’t working yet (as of April 8, 2023 per post # 8 and as of May 11, 2023, per post 13 at this link:
C8 and Z-Wave Long Range - #8 by danabw - Using C-8 - Hubitat)
Will the 800 series long range work out of the box with the Inovelli switch once Hubitat, or someone else, has it working on their side?
That last post also mentions the 700 series chips had a long range capability. Is that implemented in the Fan + Light? I have 5 of them and they virtually never direct connect.
I have 3 sets of Red dimmers doing 3-way associations in my house. It works fine and stays synchronized. Unlike in that thread, I found I had to also associate group 2 for it to work correctly. Otherwise, the ramp rate isn’t used on the slave device. I expect the same on the new one.
It works something like the following,
Group 2 - used to send basicset on-off commands. This lets the on-off ramp rate be used at both devices.
Group 3 - this tells the slave device to start ramping and stop ramping. This synchronizes them while you are dimming, but the slave device may be behind the master.
Group 4 - This tells the slave device to go to the final level once you stop dimming. This synchronizes the final level between devices.
I might have group 3 & 4 swapped in the description, but the above is the general idea.
Master is the one you are controlling. Slave is the one the master is telling to operate. When manually operating them, the master is the one you are using, so it can switch depending on which device you are at. On the hub, only use the one where you did not disable the zwave hub association behavior so that one is always the master for zwave control.
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I can’t stand getting up to switch my office fan on and off, and I have a whole house of reconfiguration to get my old red series switches in the right places waiting on my pre-order!
I hope you’ve got a fan switch on pre-order as well because the regular dimmers aren’t rated to control fan loads.
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I’ve got some red series switches I’m going to love into the fan positions.
That’s what I’m saying. The red series switches aren’t rated for fans. While it may “work”, you will likely eventually damage the fan motor or the switch by controlling an unsupported load. Absolute worst case scenario, which is unlikely but possible, things could overheat and start an electrical fire which wouldn’t be covered by insurance since you’re using a switch not rated for the fan.
I’d highly recommend hopping on board with the fan switch instead of a dimmer for your fan.
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I am talking about red series switches, not dimmers… LZW30s. Those are rated for up to a 300W max inductive load.
Ohhhh you’re MOVING old switches to those positions. I get it now.
Any update on delivery date?
Going on business trip for a week overseas, hope to see them when I am back.
On a different note - In other thread I’ve mentioned that with Blue 2in1 new firmware 2.14, with trailing edge (most reasonable explanation for the issue I heard so far) I am having troubles with buzzing and flickering. Should I expect the same behavior with Red 2in1 - I mean would it be trailing edge dimming?
Thanks
Definitely can get confusing as new models come out …
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