The device is an ST-Link v2, though it seems only the SWD pins are used, so hopefully any cheap SWD debugger can be used.
The pins that are connected seem to be (debugger <-> smart switch):
Vcc (3.3v) <-> Red <-> Brown
SWDIO <-> Orange <-> Red
SWCLK <-> Yellow <-> Orange
SWO <-> Green <-> Yellow
GND <-> Blue <-> Green
Edit: I’m not quite sure what type of connector is on the smart switch side; maybe someone else can figure it out?
It’s just header pins sticking up from PCB. Not sure on pin out though.
None, for the wired thread/matter conversion, if you have and want to remain using Zigbee. Just use the switch and update OTA for any Zigbee based changes in software.
A lot - if a customer wants to transition to thread/matter going forward on already installed switches. Zigbee is not part of the Matter spec and won’t be anytime soon. That doesn’t imply one is better or worse, but if your switch is thread/matter it can be commissioned into all matter compliant smarthomes at the same time, so for instance one spouse using android can control with (google home, Alexa, smart things) while the other spouse with an iPhone can control with HomeKit. The switch state (on/off/dimmer) will be visible in all those platforms simultaneously.
Thread/matter likely to have some limitations relative to Zigbee as well for a while (Zigbee is older and as a result more developed). Custom zigbee bindings and such, I can see for one. Choice is good though.
Disregard my last. I thought it was pins but just looked. Looks like you need a male connector to plug into switch.
As others have said, this sort of flashing cable setup is extremely standard across low voltage electronics. While the manufacturer sent a slightly fancy device to the customer, end-users will likely be able to build a functional equivalent for under $20.
Since Eric has mentioned that he’s planning to publish instructions for doing this reflash, I think it’s safe to say that everyone who wants thread on these devices will be able to get it.
Even if Inovelli doesn’t officially support, sell, or lend a flashing device (probably the right choice, since it distracts from the core business of building us new switches), I’m certain robust community support will develop around the procedure. Even if Inovelli doesn’t offer an upgrade service themselves, I’m sure we’ll see at least a couple enterprising forum members offering to do it for a nominal fee (I’d be surprised if it ends up costing more than $10 per device).
And since people keep asking - once the device is flashed over to thread using the adapter, thread-based OTA updates should work perfectly fine.
@Eric_Inovelli My very strong suggestion would be to publish the detailed upgrade instructions, let users build out a wiki, and rely on community support/vendors to help people get upgrades. If a few people emerge as clear leaders in this space, work with them for warranty/repairs too if end-users mess it up. You’re a small enough operation that this type of very high-touch technical customer service is too expensive to have in-house, but it’s an easy thing for a hobbyist to manage.
A while back you mentioned that you were going to tell us why 240v support didn’t make it… I’m still curious to hear those details. I suspect low voltage power supply cost, or UL shenanigans.
Good morning everyone! Would someone mind explaining the different modes the switch can be put into, specifically the “dimmer” and “smart” modes? Just not sure what the differences are. I’ve tried searching through all the posts but didn’t see much about it.
It’s called a 2 in 1 as it can mimic a traditional switch where its wired light load turns on and off instantly, or it can act as a dimmer, ramping on at off and controlling the wired lighting load at varied intensities.
It also has a smart bulb mode designed to power a wired smart bulb load at 100%, yet allow the paddle to operate independently. This allows you to bind the switch to the smart bulb load to control it.
It can also act separately as a scene controller, with multi-taps sending scene commands.
Thanks for the reply! So if I understand it correctly, I currently have a smart bulb in a fixture controlled by a kasa smart switch, but of course the bulb loses power when the switch is off. So when my blue switches gets here, I should go for the smart mode? Probably should have led with that question. Thanks again!
While we’re on the topic of Thread/Matter and Zigbee, will updating (via cable) the first batch of switches mean that they will only work with Thread/Matter, or will Zigbee support be preserved and able to be used simultaneously?
And just to clarify (I think someone mentioned it above), once initially updated via serial cable to Thread/Matter any future Thread/Matter updates can occur OTA?
If Zigbee support is maintained and I only have to do the serial update process once I’d be much more inclined to keep my order of MG21 switches rather than wanting to wait for the newer chipset.
Yes. Turn on the Smart Bulb Mode (SBM) and then (if your bulb is Zigbee) bind the switch to the bulb. In the alternative, control the bulb via a scene triggered by the switch.
Yes they are Zigbee (Phillips Hue). Thanks again for the help!
I just thought of another question if you don’t mind. I have another similar situation but with 3 hue bulbs in a ceiling fan light fixture that is controlled by a wall switch, independently of the fan. I am assuming I would not be able to do the binding to the switch, or can more than one bulb be bound to a single blue switch?
Not sure if it matters but I use HA for everything.
Binding | Zigbee2MQTT
This may help, but technically if the bulbs support group binding then it should work.
How To’s | Setup Zigbee Binding - Home Assistant (ZHA) - How To’s & Flex Zone / Wiki & How-To’s - Inovelli Community
Thanks!
Each individual bulb can be or the group of the bulbs can be bound to the switch. HOWEVER, the bulbs cannot be used with a Hue bridge AND grouped/bound to the switch, so you might lose some of the Hue-only features.
Thanks for this. I was actually just about to ask that. 
My hue bulbs are currently connected to the hue bridge, usable in HA with the hue integration. I would just need to ditch the hue bridge and connect them directly to my zigbee2mqtt dongle for the binding to work. Not too worried about the additional hue features I guess. I never use the hue app for anything other than the initial setup.
@ryknow27 Doesn’t sound like a big deal for you, but you could also continue using the Hue integration and create automations to turn on the bulbs when a switch button is pressed. How well this works depends on your smart platform of choice though. I’m using Home Assistant with a Hue Bridge v2 (so no binding) and my automations work great with no noticeable latency from the moment I press the button to when the light turns on (or off). I do this for two reasons: 1) I actually do like the Hue app, using the pre-built scenes, etc. 2) I activate different scenes based on time of day (day = Concentrate, evening = Relax, etc.)
All that said, when I had a similar set up using SmartThings, latency could be pretty bad at times. On occasion, it was several seconds before a light would react. That was years ago now though, so I’m not sure if traffic can be completely local now or if it still has to traverse the internet.
Edit: fixed a type
Only issue is if the hub is down, that is lost. If directly bound, they will work locally with no hub whatsoever (I’ve tested with HA down, and it works flawlessly).
