Only on 2.4ghz WiFi; not just WiFi.
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I understand that you think itās a non-issue, but if youāve watched any of his videos, youād know he doesnāt want to take a chance.
You can find it in this part of his video that he clearly states that heās going z-wave to avoid the WiFi interference.
Oh I get it. I was just implying that zigbee only interferes with 2.4 ghz channel. To simply just say āWiFi interference ā would be incorrect because it doesnāt interfere with 5ghz band (even harmonics). If someone wasnāt as wifi smart they would probably think zigbee is going to break their whole house wifi which isnāt really the case. Yes, it could interact with the 2.4 channelsā¦but itās not going to break it.
I wonder how many devices he has on 2.4 ghz?
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Unless heās got APs in every room, most of his devices will probably fall back to 2.4Ghz. I run 2 APs in my setup and most of my devices are still operating on 2.4Ghz.
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Well if heās foolish not to install APs in multiple locations (and properly configured) then I can only say he failed himself. He spent $10k on switches. A couple thousand in WiFi gear isnāt going to break him.
I donāt have any devices that fall back onto 2.4. I donāt use band steering either as tats a band aide and youāre relying on UI to perform this function adequately. Not all their products are designed flawlessly. I run separate rf channels/SSIDs and each device is connected to the appropriate SSID to match. Thereās no way it can fall back to 2.4.
In my last house (2200sqft) I had 6 APs covering main level, basement and outdoors. All power outputs were manually adjusted and appropriate channels configured (1,6, 11 @ 20 mhz bw for 2.4; 5 ghz had 40mhz bw on non-DFS channels.)
Current house Iām using the UDR until I can get cable pulled to rooms to add the appropriate amount of APs. I generally have 50-60 clients with no issues.
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You guys havenāt been following along. Dude is going to kill his neighborhood with wifi strenth. Heās got over $20k in APās alone I believe.
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Sorry ahead of time for the lengthy feedback.
I am building a new house in Florida and been looking for a switch like this. Wouldnāt have to deal with motion sensor batteries if there was motion detection in the switch. Issue is if you pack TOO much in, then itās an expert of some vs doing everything wellā¦ what gets sacrificed because of either space or cost?
What I would hate is to outfit the house and find there is a fatal flaw, or if I paid an extra $30 it would be made of quality parts vs cheap parts. My opinion but there are too many things with cheap parts and I have to replace all the time ā¦ even something like a coffee makerā¦ you can get one that is $200 with all kinds of fanciness, but it was made cheaply and when breaks it canāt do the one thing I want it to do; Brew coffee 
so I got a $23 one and itās lasted for years; placed a smart plug on it and done.
The thing for me is reliability, and keeping it simple. Let the hubs do much of the heavy lifting, but expose and send the data needed to the hub for that processing and decision. Stick to the foundation 
but have fall back in place for if a āfancyā component fails. Use quality parts so that itās reliable and lasts, and just be transparent and then people can appreciate why the cost is high. If I knew I was getting quality product that I didnāt have to replace for 10-20years or more like these dumb toggle switches, Iād make the investment. I donāt want to feel like my investment is going to go bust in 4-5yrs or even less with things that burn out easilyā¦ I already have cars that do that
My house will have bedrooms but really one open space great room and outdoor lighting (everything a typical house has). Thing is people might be in the center of the room, and so is there going to be a motion sensor near to where people are congregated or how far can the sensors sense? I guess that is the difference of the 5.8Ghz component.
If you build it with quality components, and have a warranty that backs that up, then Iād be in for the cost to have those core motion sensing and light/fan switch magic features.
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Overall, I love the feature set. One thing I would add is the ability to set the LED color and intensity based on commands from the hub. Iāve never used one but the HomeSeer HS-WX300 has this feature and I would love to see it in this product too.
If the alarm is armed, Iād like the light switch in my garage to be bright red so it reminds me to disarm the alarm when I walk in.
If itās between 8pm and 11pm on Trash Day, Iād like all my switch LEDs in common areas to be Blue. On recycling day, Green.
Being able to flash would be nice too. Is the back door left open for more than 10 minutes? Flash blue. 20 minutes? Flash Orange? 30 minutes? Flash red.
Stuff like that.
This is an existing feature in currently available Red and Blue series switches/dimmers - color, brightness, flashing, etc. From the product description:
- LED Notifications Have the LED Bar change colors or chase, flash, blink, pulse, etc. to notify you of changes going on in your home. For example, the garage door being left open, the security system being armed, the weather outside starting to rain, or even a text message. The possibilities are endless here.
I donāt see it spelled out specifically in the technical description at the start, but the same capability will certainly be included in this switch design. Thereās mention further down the thread of making the individual LEDs in the strip addressable, so youād have even more granular control.
Thatās great to hear. I didnāt see it in the design doc so I figured it wasnāt included. I should have read more thoroughly.
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i guess this may go without setting but iād like the ability to disable the light bar altogether.
Also in the picture ( i know it was just a quick example) it looks like there is a little light beneath the switch paddels. on my existing lights that is a blue led that is on when the switch is off and off when the switch is onā¦ iād like to disable it and not have a light on the switch at all.
Not sure if I understand completely, but you can set intensity of LED Bar to 0 (off) for both on or off states.
When set to 0:
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Yeah I do this at night and only turn on the LED bar with motion (instead of the load). Works great and letās me find the switch if needed while āmoving about the cabinā.
The only LED(s) on the proposed drawing is the LED bar on the side of the switch. The small hole that you described as the ālittle light beneath the switch paddleā is the lux sensor. Itās not a LED. As @harjms mentioned, itās standard Inovelli fare to make the LED bar fully configurable, so you can set the intensity or turn it off.
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A week after he said it but just thought i would point out linus is thinking about getting on board again https://youtu.be/I1rCEL9uGwk/?t2h38m36s
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Nice! Approximately where did he say it in the video?
Weāve been having some decent discussions behind the scenes. Itās been a rollercoaster of emotions tbh lol
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The first link i posted he talked about it at 2 hours 38 minutes 36 seconds then again on the next weeks wan show https://youtu.be/CUb942pcIdQ at 1 Hour 23 Minutes 2 seconds
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Nice thanks!
Linus: āI may just fund the whole damn thingā¦ā
Me: 
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Was going to post about thisā¦but I am behind on there showā¦
I hope this works out
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This one from Aug 19th sounds VERY positive!
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