3-Way Issue - ON/OFF's Only | (Wiring Correct, But Lights Not Behaving Properly)

Overview

This is going to be a thread that pertains to these threads (NOTE: On/Off Switches Only):

  1. Help With 3-Way - #28 by Eric_Inovelli - Wiring Discussion - Inovelli Community
  2. 3 way help.. yes, i know - #9 by Eric_Inovelli - Wiring Discussion - Inovelli Community

I believe they all share a common denominator in that the wiring appears correct, however, there’s just something wrong with how the 3-Way operates. Here’s a visual example:

@harjms – can you share your video again? For some reason I need access. I can download it to my account so you don’t have to have everyone using your gdrive.


Purpose

The purpose of this thread is to collect as much info as possible and figure out if there are any common setups.

To start, please answer these questions in your post below and I’ll synthesize it down and edit this post with details:

  1. Type of Switch (ie: Black or Red Series)
  2. Type of setup (ie: 3-Way, 4-Way, 5-Way, etc)
  3. What schematic are you following (ie: line/load in same box, different box, etc) – Schematics can be found here: https://inovelli.com/lzw30-sn/wiring
  4. How many bulbs are you controlling?
  5. What type of bulbs are they (manufacturer/model#/type - ie: Philips, xxxx1234 model, BR30)
  6. Best guess as to how long the wiring is between switch(es) and bulb(s)

Anything else?


Tagging a few people I know have this issue – anyone else, please feel free to pitch in too if you’re experiencing this.

@harjms, @gbenrus25, @Blivit, @Cqjames, @Newlance

  1. Type of Switch (ie: Black or Red Series)
    Red Series
  2. Type of setup (ie: 3-Way, 4-Way, 5-Way, etc)
    3 way
  3. What schematic are you following
    Line/load in separate box
  4. How many bulbs are you controlling?
    1 light
  5. What type of bulbs are they (manufacturer/model#/type - ie: Philips, xxxx1234 model, BR30)
    Sea Gull Traverse II integrated led recessed kit 14 Watt 14701SC-15
  6. Best guess as to how long the wiring is between switch(es) and bulb(s)
    10 ft

@Eric_Inovelli - Done.
20190929_183439.mp4 - Google Drive

  1. Black series switch
  2. 3-way
  3. Line/load in separate boxes.
  4. 2 bulbs being controlled
  5. Philips LED’s.
  6. The 2 fixtures are between the 2 switches. Rough distance between switches maybe 11 feet.

So mine are dimmers – I’m just wondering if there is going to be a separate thread for that, but otherwise it sounds like the same issue…

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@Cqjames - I just purchased these from Home Depot to be delivered to me (says it will be delivered November 25th).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sea-Gull-Lighting-Traverse-II-6-in-White-Integrated-LED-Recessed-Kit-14701SC-15/303060377

@Blivit - I ordered these from Amazon (to be delivered on the 19th)

Philips 461160 40W Equivalent Daylight Non-Dimmable A19 LED Light Bulb (4-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FETJFWK

a) Garage Lights

  1. Type of Switch: Red (LZW30-SN)
  2. Type of setup: 3-way
  3. What schematic are you following: Line/Load separate boxes
  4. How many bulbs are you controlling? Two
  5. What type of bulbs are they: Ecosmart, A19, Edison style, 6.5 W/each
  6. Best guess as to how long the wiring is between switch(es) and bulb(s): From the load center to first switch, ~20 FT; first switch to second switch, ~40-50 ft, second switch to first light bulb, 35 ft, first light bulb to second light bulb, ~20 ft. Best case, 115 ft of cabling.

b) Under cabinet - *Note partially resolved 3 way issue w/ dimmer; have dim lights still (seen in video)

  1. Type of Switch: Red
  2. Type of setup: 3 way
  3. What schematic are you following: Line/load separate boxes
  4. How many bulbs are you controlling? 12
  5. What type of bulbs are they: Kakanuno ()https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYN2535/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. Best guess as to how long the wiring is between switch(es) and bulb(s): ~70 ft total from load center to last bulb.

*Note: Issue b) 3 way not working was resolved with the dimmer. I believe because I could force the switch to be a 3 way toggle, not sure, just my opinion. I still have the dim lights even if the dimmer is off. <

There’s still voltage present and may just be enough to light the bulbs. See the chart that I did before:

1 Like

@Eric_Inovelli thanks for diving into this and buying our lights to troubleshoot.

1 Like

Trying to think ahead on what the issue may be, and how it can be fixed.

  1. Wiring issue. If it is a simple swap of wires, that is easy, but if it requires additional wires to be run, that would be a pain and negate the ease of installing this switch. From what I see, a common trend is line/load in separate boxes.
  2. Bulb issue. Seems unlikely but I suppose lower current led bulbs could be a problem. Again, could be swapped but I am not sure most would do that.
  3. Switch issue. And in this case I would have to assume something that could not be fixed or updated through a firmware update. Most likely an aux switch could probably be used here but again, that would negate the ease of installing the inovelli.

Seems not an easy task as there appears to be no “aha” moment and many that are affected by this.

Here’s what I’ve tried when troubleshooting:

  1. I’ve tried swapping the wires (travelers) at the dumb and smart switch. No change. After each wire swap, I isolated power from the load center because the air-gap may not completely cut power to the smart switch. No change in the function of the 3-way.

  2. I changed my outside bulbs from LED to incandescent style. I installed 60W bulbs for a total of 120W. No change in the function of the 3-way.

I too believe it’s an issue with the MCU recognizing the 3 way load. I hope they can add a configuration, like the dimmer, to select 3-way toggle or 3-way momentary. However, it could be something simple that I’ve overlooked too.

I had some time so I too tried swapping wires around again. I tried some of the suggested setups in other threads here with no luck.

Any other activity on this testing yet @Eric_Inovelli ?

Hey Eric,

I ordered a couple more switches as I have been extremely happy with these switches, however I just did a swap out on a 3 way and looks like I am experiencing the same issue with this one switch as others are having above.

Here are the details of my set up. (no issues with the 4 way that i posted earlier this month, once i used the right wiring schematic it worked like a charm, and all the rest are single switches)

  1. Type of Switch (ie: Black or Red Series) Black Series LZW30

  2. Type of setup (ie: 3-Way, 4-Way, 5-Way, etc) 3 Way

  3. What schematic are you following (line/load in same box)

  4. How many bulbs are you controlling? 1 fixture with 2 bulbs.

  5. What type of bulbs are they I tried a few different ones. CFL, halogen, incandescent and LED all with the same result. (LED ones are Noma 31104/399-0212-8 10W)

  6. Best guess as to how long the wiring is between switch(es) and bulb(s) less than 10 feet on both runs.

Dummy switch does not turn off the smart switch but does turn it on. flicking the dummy switch does momentary flicker the light on then it shuts off. (if the smart switch is turned on)

I have verified the black is hooked to common on the dummy, and white from the Traveler box to box is on the load side on the smart switch. I did try and swap the red traveler with the white at the dummy switch but same result. Verified wiring several times and it is exactly like this diagram.

The Diagram that I am using is

here are some pics of my current wiring

Plot Thickens…

I went to turn on our outside lights and noticed 2 other smart switches not working… Strange… checked breaker box, all breakers were on.

Turns out the wire that I thought went to the light fixture actually goes to the other junction box were the other two smart switches are. (when i put the two black wires back togeher power was restored at the other switches) now i’m totally lost. ill play around a bit later tonight after dinner but this could be the same issues oters are having. might have to get a electrician in on this one.

Here is a before pic of the original light switch.

@Eric_Inovelli Has there been any further development/testing done on this issue? At this point for me, I will probably have to remove the switch from the 3-way location it is in now and put it somewhere else because it is not working as it should there.

Edit
I, in fact, did remove the switch tonight. It’s not working in 3 way and I am not sure when or even if it will work. I have other 3 way locations but they currently have dimmers installed. Not completely upset but one of the main reasons for trying the inovelli was the no aux switch requirement which is not the case here.

  1. Black? the box is all black with a red triangle
  2. 3-way
  3. line/load in same box
  4. 2 and 3. 2 different switches, same problem.
  5. Electric Zone. EZ-A615-BA-2700K-A6
  6. 10’
  7. Things work fine but if I switch the dumb switch into the other position the smart switch no longer operates the lights. The smart switch always has power so the LED lights up like it’s turning on the lights but it doesn’t make the connection…

Some sort of feedback on this from inovelli would be great.

@eric_inovelli
Black LZW30 - 3 way dumb switch in one position switch will not turn on/off from smart switch. other position works but when off the lights are dim.

  1. Type of Switch Black
  2. Type of setup 3-Way
  3. What schematic are you following line/load in same box
  4. 2 strings 50 feet each led Christmas lights
  5. Not sure will need to look
  6. 20 feet

Thought about adding in a bypass to see if that would work. I also have 2 new Red dimmers but didn’t want to waste one for this location. I can try if we need to see if it works.

Any updates from inovelli on this one?

I put a couple posts here that were related to a dimmer issue. I now see this is not the right place so I deleted them. I’ve added a new post to (LZW31-SN turns off randomly - General Discussion - Inovelli Community) which seems more correct.