@EricM_Inovelli just curious if there’s any more details on the idea of splitting firmware so there’s more room for features? There seems to be a fair amount of desire to have the local settings feature dropped for those of us using hubs that can manage those.
I tried this and appears to not work. For the OTA firmware update I’m using the “Z-Wave PC Controller” software from Silicon Labs with the zwave.me UZB1 stick . I was able to get it to join my SmartThings network as a secondary controller, but that appears to disable the PC Controller’s ability to do OTA as a secondary. Looks like it can only do OTA when its the primary.
It should work but you need to select the node in network management and click on the “Node Info” icon. This will discover that the node is using S0 security and that the PC Controller software needs to use the security key to communicate.
Edit: When you first join the USB stick with PC Controller software to the SmartThings network it obtains the S0 key. If you close the software it may lose the key so make sure you copy it or save it out of the “Security Test Schema” portion of the PC Controller software.
Honestly I thought it would be out by now. The engineers are ghosting me with the last change requests that I made. I think they got annoyed with my OCD about things being perfect. Also, they might be busy with other projects. I will try to bug them again.
@EricM_Inovelli You may want to check out quote below from this thread. I rechecked my settings, and my HA Hub is displaying “Neutral” for A/C type, when the install is definitely non-neutral and functioning entirely correctly. I’ve only installed the beta software at one normal location, but I could update this switch as well and see if this looks to be corrected with the beta? This user’s aux switch wasn’t behaving until settings were set as follows:
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I actually upgraded the firmware of one of my switches in a 3 way config with the 1.41 beta and my setup still needs to be configured as I mentioned in the other thread. Oh well, it works as a switch so I can live with this!
I updated to 1.41 on one switch that kept turning off a few seconds after being powered on in the 3-way setup and the switch is still turning off if I set the brightness higher than 80%. I tried switching the power settings to non-neutral and load only and then back again and it still would shut off.
I wanted to check on the instructions…
I use an Intel NUC and Home Assistant and have 3 of these switches.
I use the HUSBZB-1
I unplug it, plug it into my PC, and I can use the ZWave Controller from Silabs. I use it when I struggle to get stuck devices removed.
So in my situation, I can skip all the remove / add nodes parts of those instructions and just do the OTA parts of those instructions I assume?
I also think in the instructions where it says click the button 6 times, don’t you mean 3?
Will test today, been wanting the feature for not changing the notification color
Did updating the .bin firmware on target 1 for the LZW31-SN for anyone else result in the Z-Wave PC Controller software getting stuck at “packet# 2531 of 2531 written…” and them seeming to hang there indefinitely? I’ve tried this on two different dimmers, and it happened to them both, and I’m pretty sure it’s not just an issue of waiting long enough, as I let one sit over night and it was still doing this in the morning. The LED bar on the dimmer is flashing blue like it’s updating. Target 0 completed successfully. The switch also appears to still work fine, but I’m nervous about this apparently half-complete state.
I did try un-pairing and resetting (I do confess that I first tried updating from a Zooz S2 stick paired to Hubitat as a secondary controller but then tried it paired directly to the stick in case there’s some reason it wouldn’t like that). Not sure what else I can try, but at least it looks like I didn’t totally break anything… 
Yeah, sounds like you might have grabbed the wrong file. Good news is that it is extremely difficult to mess up a z-wave device during the flash process. You should be able to close the software and try again with the bin file. I think you have to click the file type drop down and choose all types for it to show the bin file.
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You can do it that way, but if you used secure inclusion in HA, you will need to use your S0 key to be able to communicate with the switch. I think it is in a config file somewhere but not sure where.
If you did a nonsecure inclusion then you don’t have to worry about that.
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This is so true… There are tons of checks and balances … Even my early pre-alpha firmware updater code, I never messed up a device…
Thanks for the ideas! I did think that was odd, but did indeed find the BIN file for target 1 (and the file I downloaded was much smaller than the other; even tried it again in case the first download was corrupted but somehow still close enough to work):
And for fun, here I am trying again–still says “of 2531,” and I suspect it will get stuck there:
I can wait and see but don’t have much hope for this time around, either.
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I’d bet it’s trying to pad the end of the image to the length of the storage… Just a guess from what I have seen so far in working with these standards…
I should note that I was able to do this at home myself on two dimmers just fine, using the same software and an Aeon Z-Stick (the primary controller on my Hubitat C-3). I’m trying it above at @mrutenbeck’s house using the same software and a Zooz ZST10 S2 stick (though I should note that in all cases, nothing is joined with S0/S2 to either Hubitat or the stick when I tried that alone). I can’t imagine the stick would make a difference, but he has a few more, and I could try another stick at some point (a Nortek HUSBZB-1 is probably all I could do without messing up my own Hubitat too much ).
Yep, I only secure include my locks, the rest I don’t, makes the network faster…
i will try it tonight
Make any progress here? That is so strange the packet# you are seeing. For target 1 with the .bin it has always been a few hundred packets for me.