Basically the topic question says it all. I want to install my LZW31-SN in a 2 gang box with another zooz switch. That will force me to remove one side of tabs. I’ve calculated the wattage I will want on that side as it is for garage lights where I have two 75w LED wraparounds, but also want to add some led puck lights that are 12w each. I don’t need dimming on this switch, and know the normal on/off switch would maintain the 300w LED load with or without tabs. Wondering if I can set up the dimmer to do the same?
According to the manual the dimmer is rated up to 300W when 1 side of tabs are removed. Set parameter 52 to 1 for on/off mode.
That’s 300W incandescent. But it’s 200W LED. I think you are fine without the pucks, but over the specs with them.
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Yeah. I never quite understood that. Do you know why its less with LEDs?
You and me both. I’ve looked at it quickly in the past. It has to do with LEDs having a higher peak power than incandescents, hence the de-rating. It’s apparently more than you get with an equivalent purely resistive load.
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Thanks, yeah seems to be the case. Was hoping that it would be like the LZW30-SN if it was set to on/off mode:
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How many pucks were you planning? 75W x 2 = 150, so you have a bit of room left.
More than 4. 150+(12*4) = 198. 300 max would have been ideal.
I wonder if the new 2-1 will have 300 max regardless of tabs.
The Blue is rated for 300W LED. It doesn’t have tabs that impact capacity.
FWIW – I’m using an LZW31-SN as an on off switch with all tabs removed and a ~240W LED load. I have had zero issues so far, but YMMV.
My understanding is that the lower rating is largely a factor of LEDs having much higher inrush current.
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