I can recreate the issue with my Red series Dimmer, but it appears to be caused (in part) by particular bulbs.
My setup:
Dimming Speed: 0
Dimming Speed from Switch: 3
Ramp Rate: 0
Ramp Rate from switch: 0
Minimum Level: 1
Maximum Level: 99
Auto Off Timer: 0
Default Level (Local): 0
Default Level (Switch): 0
State after power restored: 0
Switch type: 3-way toggle
This switch is not actually wired to a 3-way, but when configured as one, and while using my Feit Electric CEOM100/930/4 (Costco) bulbs, the light does not stay on. When I turn on the light, it stays on for a few seconds, and then the relay clicks and the light turns off. See video.
I have no automations set up for this switch. If I use a different bulb, such as TCP BR30012, I do not experience any issues.
It also appears that the switch does some sort of current sensing to determine whether the switch has been turned on or off. While configured in 3-way toggle mode, turning the attached lamp on or off will cause the switch to turn itself on.
I am not sure, I have 8 switches that were from an early batch. I have 6 LZW31-SN and 2 NZW30 w/Scene. Until today I have never had a light shut off without having automated it or turn it off with the switch.
I installed one switch today in a 3way. It has shut off unexpected 3 times today. Twice almost immediately after being installed and one later in the evening. The only thing that is different with this switch compared to the others is the lights they are connected to are LED pot lights. Sorry I don’t have makes or models and they are in the ceiling.
If you really believe it is the switch, I have two more that have not been installed yet and see if I can reproduce it.
@DRMiller@jtronicus@Yombad
Not to rain on your very detailed additions to this discussion. But this thread That @anon64478871 is working n is about the LZW-30SN on/off switch not the dimmer. There is another thread specifically about the dimmer issues. Like the immediate shut off. The issue I am having and others with the on/off switches are that they turn off even with the relay bypassed when attached to neutral wires.
Just a friendly FYI so this thread can stay focused on the LZW-30SN and the 31(dimmer). Cheers.
This forum is a mess and when I get the time I am re-organizing it into Hub -> Series -> Model so its nice and clean and easier to know where to post and where to find answers.
As for all the off/on issues trust me this is foremost on my list as I too in testing have run into some zwave issues myself and not just with the switches but the bulbs as well.
Right this minute there is no definite answer but I do have some suspicions of what is going on. I am asking everyone to just hold on and don’t think we are ignoring you, we aren’t !!
In a week or so I should have some answer as to what is going on.
The problem being reported in this thread about the switch is the exact same problem I am having with the dimmer. That is why I added to this thread. If you want to separate them, that’s fine. But it seems logical to me that they are likely caused by the same underlining problem.
I quickly looked at other threads and I did not see this exact problem being discussed anywhere else. If it is, please send a link and I’ll be happy to post there instead.
Looking forward to getting the dimmer (and switches) working correctly.
I’ve installed about 30 of these switches/dimmers in my place and have seen this same issue with only one of them.
It happened before I was able to configure it. But I eventually forced every setting to be rewritten. With the stock drivers I think you can do this by changing every setting. Then go back and change them all to default.
Once I did that I haven’t had any issues since.
I’ve done this on all of my devices and I think it was also mentioned here in the forums to solve the issue for another person.
But the on/off switches do not have options for neutral and dumb switch settings… only the dimmers. I actually don’t have any dimmers set up with smart lights. So not an issue I have encountered… yet.
What is the best reset method for the on/off switches.
Note: I have been able to consistently reproduce the turning off after a while for the switches for all loads between 2W and 14W so far. The only time I can get smart lights to keep power while off is when the switch is registering less than 2W of power. All my 3 led potlight setups keep power when off. ie: the switch doesn’t turn off. They only show 1.1 W usage when relay bypassed but leds off.
Ya all think resetting switch to factory is something to try?
It’s not resetting exactly. I just want you to change all the parameters you have to something different and save it then go back restore the settings you had before and save again and see if that makes any difference – NOTE even if you don’t use a setting change that also.
Okay - went through all the settings… changed them… didn’t do any of the led options though, saved them then changed them back…still went offline over night.
I will try and reset it instead today… as the LZW-30SN is supposed to recognize whether it is in a single or 3-way vs neutral and non neutral by itself… i think a factory reset us the only way for it to put it into neutral mode… maybe it thinks its in non neutral mode.
I turned the switch on again by hitting the off and then on buttons in the hubitat devices. I confirmed that the Philips light would turn on. I changed every parameter except AC Power Type I left set to “Neutral” and the Switch Type I left set to “Load Only”. I did not change any LED Notifications. I then saved preferences, then hit the save button, and then hit configure. I then changed everything back.
I checked the switch operation about 8 hours later and it was off again. So this did not resolve the issue.
I then changed the Power Type to no selection and the Switch Type to no selection. After saving and configuring again I then set these two back to the original values. I will check to see if the switch is powering the light in the morning.
Its been almost 24 hours since I changed the Power Type and Switch Type back and forth. And the dimmer switch is still powering the light like it should. I’ll wait another 24 hours and report back again, but I think it may be fixed now.
This is definitely feeling like the thing to do to get the dimmers to work.
But as the on / off switches do not have those parameters to set I can’t think of anything to replicate this procedure…
Checked it again just now. And the power is off. Hubitat thinks the power is on. Turning the dimmer “off” and then “on” again turns the power back on. Same problem. It just took longer than 24 hours to happen this time.
@DRMiller What is the energy pull on your switch in W when your lights are off? On my switches anything above 2W eventually turns off. But below that they stay on…I’m guessing hubitat reads the energy use like ST does.
The switch reports the energy as “2.421”. The power reports “5”. These do not change when bulb is on nor off. I don’t think these are reporting correctly. This is powering one Philips Hue BR 30 multi color bulb. This is supposed to use 9 watts according to the specifications.
Here is the report and the parameters.
Tomorrow evening I’ll pull the switch out and double check that it is wired correctly. This is making me wonder if load and hot lines are reversed. If it is wired correctly, then I will replace it with another new red series dimmer switch to see if the dimmer might be defective.
The energy readings are not being reported in your setup. Mine definitely change when bulbs are on and off. Even dimming levels change the wattage being reported. Which makes sense. And with your setup of one bulb I wonder how it can pull more than 1W when off…
It’s hard to believe that would be the case. If the hot was wired to one of the travelers (i.e. the load or traveler) then the switch would only be powered with the relay in one position.
