LZW31-SN Red Series Switch STUCK ON

Just had an unfortunate problem with one of the LZW31-SN Red Series Switches I have installed. With the high winds we’re having right now we just had a power out and immediate return of power to the house in two short bursts. During this power issue, the switch in question was on. When the power returned for the second time in about 5 or so seconds the switch did not return to the ON state, but the lights remained on. I pulled the tab on the switch and the lights went out. When I pressed the tab back in the lights came back on, but the switch still showed off. I did a factory reset and re-added it to the hub and still the problem remains. I pulled the switch from the wall and powered it on a second circuit and found the switch is just stuck in the On position no matter what state it shows in. It’s almost as if the relay is stuck closed. I can press On the switch and LED lights up as if the power is coming on and press the switch to power it off and still the power between the line and load remains.

Anyone have any suggestions or have had a similar issue?

Thanks!

Can you confirm if both local and remote control are non-functional? It sounds like the switch may died from a power surge.

The switch seems to operate just like it would normally both at the switch and via remote over the hub. It accepts commands, resets, setting changes, etc. The only thing it doesn’t do is cut the power from the load when switched or remote commanded off.

Can you verify the relay isn’t disabled on the switch? Press the config button 8x. If I recall correctly it should light up green if the relay is enabled. If it lights up red the relay is disabled.

Try toggling that setting and testing if the switch functions properly. Also could you confirm what hub you are using and the load (aka types, count, wattage of bulbs)

I tried the 8 press on the config button. I got both red and green to indicate and with either setting the lights remained on with no change when commanding the switch. I have a Hubitat C-5 for the hub and this switch is powering 10, 6W LED bulbs and I also have a bypass in one of the fixtures. Thanks!

Yeah it sounds like the switch relay got fried during the power fluctuations. I’ve seen this happen before when switches get wired wrong in a three way setting (ie: wired as per Gen 1 instructions and not Gen 2). I’m not saying that’s what you did as it was working perfectly before the power outage, just I’ve seen exactly what you’re talking about (LED bar turns off/on like normal but nothing happens to the light).

Shoot me a PM and I’ll send out a replacement!

For the folks reading this string of posts. Has anyone come across any device you can install at the main or sub-panels that can protect a home from a grid produced power surge. I’ve seen some devices from Eaton, but they seem to be some fancy and very expensive breakers. Just curious if anyone has come across anything, in particular, that might be more cost-effective or uniquely suited for this issue.

Here’s one item I’ve found from Eaton: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-Whole-House-Surge-Protector-CHSPT2ULTRA-1/204761136

Has anyone had any experience with these type of devices?

Yep, you are looking in the right direction. This is a category of devices that are categorized as whole house surge protectors. There are many brands but they’ll generally cost $200 - $300 plus installation. Some are add-on devices, some are in-panel where they take up two adjacent slots.

They’ll do a decent job of clamping a spike, but I would still continue to use individual protectors to supplement.

Make sure you get one that has an indicator telling you if it took a hit or not. It’s a one shot thing with the one’s I’m familiar with. If they take a hit, then you replace them.

@harjms has one too and can comment.

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Absolutely recommend. I’ve installed 3, 1 at each home I’ve purchased in the past. Lifetime warranty. I still use point of use protection, but these also help.

Also check with your power company. Some offer SPD at the meter for a nine to small monthly fee.

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@harjms @Bry
Are the Eaton ones at the panels a one-shot and they need to be replaced if they are hit?
For the individual protection points in regards to the inovelli switches are those type of devices wired in with a switch or are we talking about devices that would generally plug into a wall.

On a side note, I’m in the process of getting a solar panel system installed and was told the controller that’s attached to the panel will have surge protection as part of the install. Most likely it’s to protect the panels and electronics associated with the whole system, but mentioned it would also cover the panel into the house as well. Does anyone have experience with solar panels in regards to the surge protection devices that are used in those systems?

Thanks all!

I would look up the manual for each device and/or ask your electrician. Mine is a replace after it’s been hit.

Yes, re plug in a wall stuff. Computers, A/V, garage door controllers, etc.

If a light goes out on my CHSP device, I have to get a replacement (but it’s lifetime warranty, so free). It takes surges all the time, so unless something big hits, then it’ll be fine.

The charge controller for PV will be fine for the solar array, but I don’t think it’ll account for the Grid and would need another SPT device at the main panel, BUT I’m not an electrician and would be a great question to ask your guy as @Bry suggested.

@Bry @harjms
Thank you so much for the information and suggestions!
I’ll definitely chat with the electricians that come to install all the hardware and confirm with them the details. Thanks again!

Ahhh I believe i may have run into the same issue with my blue series switch being stuck on. I am able to still run scenes in Home Assistant as this is for my garage light but also opens and closes my garage door when holding up or down. The light is just stuck on no matter what despite the states updating in HA. I live in Norther CA and we have had quite a few outages which could explain this, however, I have 6 total and all the others are still working just fine. Anyways, not only did I find the answer to the question I had but it also looks like how to prevent it in the future. Thank you all! If some miracle fix for this comes about please let me know!