I’m swapping the NZW31 for a LZW31-SN, I assumed I could do a direct swap between these two switches - I was wrong.
I did the swap and dumb switch didn’t turn the lights on or off, the LZW31-SN worked.
I manually set the parameter 21 and 22, and when I tested my dumb 3way switch I killed the LZW31-SN.
You could hear a POP.
I thought I set the configuration wrong, so installed another new LZW31-SN, updated the firmware this time, set the parameters in hubitat, confirmed the settings took. Did a bunch of reading, bunch of posting in this thread. Turned the dumb switch on and POP - killed another switch.
Did more reading and my understanding is if I want to keep my current wire configuration I have to remove my ‘dumb’ switch and replace it with a ‘aux’ switch. Is that correct?
Yea you need to configure the switch for 3-way with dumb/toggle switch. I think it’s parameter 21/22 that should be configured after installing. I recommend doing it from a hub vs. configure button/paddle combination.
Before you even worry about parameters you need to wire the switch properly. If you look at the wiring diagram for a dumb switch with a LZW31-SN, you will see that it is wired differently from the diagram that you posted.
I have 30+ of the Gen1 switches never a problem before, I manually program one of these Red Series units in attempt to do the Parameter 21/22 (before I made this thread) and I’m pretty sure I smoked the switch.
I apologize for all the questions, hope you understand.
I already have the driver you posted up, and have been using it on my other Red Series unit.
What exactly am I looking for on this, the two drivers have different wording which is confusing me.
Currently looks like parameter 21 is 1, and 22 is 0
I think that’s what @Bry was trying to confirm with wiring. Some folks have upgraded the gen 1 switches to the LZW31 without rewriting, but I think there is some differences between the two; however, I thought this was mainly with aux switches. So to confirm, this is a line/load same box correct?
Also parameter 21 = 1 (neutral)
Parameter 22 = 1 (3 way toggle)
Make sure you save preferences after setting the parameters. The numbers next to the drop down boxes equal parameter number.
Sorry about the wrong graphic. I was trying to respond on my phone. I fixed my post to reflect line/load same box.
It’s obvious the two wiring schemes are different. The one you posted only uses 2 of the 3 conductors on the 3-wire, whereas the LZW31-SN with a dumb switch uses all three.
With a dumb switch, you’re not wiring neutral to the 3 way toggle. You’re sending two travelers (usually red/white) and the load is connected to the COM terminal.
Aux switches uses neutral and traveler only and the load bypasses the aux switch.
No, that’s not correct. Presuming that as in the drawing you posted you have a 3-wire (which means three conductors exclusive of a bare ground) running between the two switches. If you have a line and load in the same box configuration AND you have a 3-wire running between the two switch boxes (both as in the drawing you posted), you can use either a dumb switch or an Aux switch.
If you use a dumb switch, the dumb switch will only be able to turn the Inovelli on and off. You will not have any dimming capability from the dumb switch, just the Inovelli. If you use and Aux switch, you can also dim from both locations.
The wiring configurations for either of those is different than the graphic of your current configuration. I’ll post them below. It’s a matter of first identifying the line conductors and the load conductors in the Inovelli box so you can wire them properly. The line and load are NOT interchangeable.
Use a meter to test the line and load conductors so that you are certain about which is which. DO NOT wing it. If you are unfamiliar with electrical wiring, it is best to consult with an electrician. Switches do not smoke based on bad parameter settings, they smoke due to incorrect and likely unsafe wiring.
I appreciate the the post. At this point I’ve answered most of my own questions.
Sounds like you are unfamiliar with the Gen1 switches as I am unfamiliar with the new ones.
I have a meter and was involved with rewiring my entire house when I deployed Gen1 switches everywhere almost 4 years go. So I’m not hoping and poking.
My Gen1 switch in a 3way configuration activates the smart switch by putting a neutral down the traveler wire. (dumb switch sends neutral to smart switch via traveler to turn the light on, or not to turn off).
This is why I showed my EXACT wiring setup, see below.
If I want to continue only using the existing 2 wires (the neutral and traveler wire) then I need to change to a AUX SWITCH which will then also allow me to dim the lights if I want. ( I couldn’t dim with the second switch before )
