Hi all, I want to try out the new 1.52 firmware for my lzw31-sn switches. I’ve found all the requisite files and such, but as I’ve never performed a z-wave firmware update before, I was looking for a little guidance. I’d prefer to do this OTA from my Hubitat C7. I’ve found 2 methods for doing this.
Using the Hubitat provided “Device Firmware Updater” app.
Does anyone have any recommendations of 1 over the other? While I do consider myself rather savvy, I’m still quite new to Z-wave and am still learning the ins and outs.
I’m on Hubitat C-5, but if I understand correctly, the new in-built “Device Firmware Updater” is a stub for upcoming functionalityCorrection, reading further, the built in app may work; but I’ve never tried it. You’ll want to I use the user app (item #1 above). You can install it using the method described in the link above, or using the “Hubitat Package Manager” app. I prefer using the HPM for apps and drivers.
Be aware that there are two versions of the app, the older “non-binary” version; and the newer “binary” version, which supports the .BIN files. Looking at the link you provided on the screenshot of the updater page, the “Update firmware” button has fields for the image URL and “Firmware target” number. If the app installed does not have the target number, then you have the “non-binary” version installed. I think HPM installs the correct one; following the link you provided installs the correct “binary” version.
If you are using a Hubitat updater I would only use the Hubitat Device Firmware Updater, which Bryan also wrote and replaced his earlier Firmware Updater. You do not need HPM to install it as it is an app provided by Hubitat, you just need to select it from the list to install it.
Yeah personally (run a C7), I still use the original way (just did it last week actually). Definitely what @rjwgnr27 said tho, make sure to use the new one.
I’ve managed to use the Hubitat Device Updater with some success. The thing that surprises me most about this process is how incredibly slow it is. Can you run these in parallel?
Follow up question, I’m trying out the v1.52 firmware for my Red dimmers which requires a .bin and .otz update. Does it matter which one I do first? So far I’ve done the .otz first, but I don’t know if I just got lucky or if it matters at all.
And now that @Eric_Inovelli has chimed in as I’m writing this. (Which I can’t tell you how much I appreciate) I’ll try using updater driver from HPM. For the sake of anyone else who is going through the same process, I’ll post my results when I’m done.
I’ve always done otz first, then bin, but I haven’t noted anyone trying the opposite way and experiencing failure.
Just make sure you are flashing the right file to the right target. We have had a few community members flash wrong firmware or mistake node number, and that can definitely lead to “early retirement” of your switch :D.
I have never thought to do them in a particular order. I HAVE had them be incredibly slow but moving the hub close to the device instead of relying on the mesh has always helped out in the end.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Yeah, I’m definitely going to have to move the hub closer to a few switches. I’m currently updating the furthest one from the hub and it’s on pace to take 10hrs just for the .otz file. I’m really in no hurry, but I’d like it to finish before I need to use my bedroom light switch. LOL
I just installed my HE today and did all of my updates. You definitely need the binary updater if there is both an otz and a bin. If there is only one file I had the most success with the built-in updater. If you get a “wake up your sleepy device” I had success removing the device, adding it again without security, and flashing it that way. Then I could remove it again and add with security. I have spent all day on this lol.
I don’t know if it matters but I’ve been updating the otz file first and the bin file second.
Sometimes it succeeds, sometimes it doesn’t. There doesn’t seem to be much rhyme or reason to it. Several updates have succeeded after the 2nd or 3rd attempt.
Distance between the hub and switch greatly impacts update speed. The furthest switch from the hub took over 12hrs to update. (and fail)
I have had to “reboot” a few switches by using the Airgap switch when the update didn’t succeed. (The LED bar just keeps blinking and the switch is otherwise unresponsive)
There seems to be a slight problem with the new delay parameter. Disabling the local delay and re-enabling it seems to fix the problem.
Things I haven’t tried yet, but will
Moving the hub closer to the switch.
I’m also considering using my laptop with a z-wave stick to do the firmware updates. My major concern is that excluding it from the hub, updating and re-including it on the hub will break my automations. Though if it drastically improves the update speed, fixing my automations may be a small price to pay.
I use the stick method. I don’t even exclude it. I just unplug it and plug it in when I’m ready to do updates. It generally works with no issues that way.
ok. the updates are all done. I do have a few more notes to add to my saga.
One switch died during this adventure. It refused to update 3 or 4 times, then just died and had to be replaced.
I did try the binary updater driver. It gave me the same results as the Hubitat Firmware Updater. Worked some, Failed some. (From what I understand, the same guy wrote both and they are functionally very similar)
The thing I did that made the biggest difference was to move my HE closer to the switches I was trying to update. It sped up the process and my success rate improved.
I was going to give the laptop stick method a try, but I have the GoControl HUSBZB-1 stick which doesn’t seem to be supported.