Hey all,
I have a non neutral scenario with a 10.5W fixture. The blue switch does not turn on. Will one of the aeotec bypasses give enough juice on the load in this scenario? Not sure how much wattage they add on (4W?)
thanks
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Does the switch power up at all? You sure load and line are wired correctly?
Nope the switch did not power on and yeah they were wired up correctly. I swapped back in a regular switch and it works fine but I can try again if that’s your suggestion
If you want to first test at the switch is installed correctly and not having any issues, and you can swap in and incandescent bulb or bulbs (which you may or may not be able to do), then try that first. Otherwise, you’ll have to try the bypass. I don’t think anyone here will tell you with absolute certainty whether or not a bypass will work given a certain current wattage rating.
I just don’t recall anyone having no issue with a switch being powered up in a non neutral wiring format. I would think you’d at least see it boot up and continue to cycle reset if the load wasn’t enough.
Got it. let me install it again and go from there…who knows, maybe one of the wires didn’t seat properly. Will update this in a few. thanks all
Wired back up the switch, no boot and the switch did not work.
Grabbed a faulty comms blue 2-1 switch (the rma’d ones) and it flashed cyan when i turned the power on and after that no leds on the switch. The switch however did work as a dumb switch and periodically the light fixture led flashes (e.g the load is too low).
Does this sound like a dead switch?
It does to me. You can make sure the air gap switch isn’t causing an issue (maybe not seating correctly), but I think your origiyswitch may need replaced. RMA it after checking out air gap or even replacing paddle switch with faulty RF one and no worky worky.
thanks for your time on this. appreciate it
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